Cebu Philippines: Cleanup of Parian River Begins!

Photo courtesy of Sunstar Cebu

I was delighted to read that part of the Estero Parian (or Parian river, canal, or creek) will be dredged beginning this Wednesday. Cebu's City government is doing this to partially address the severe flooding in the downtown area. The estero, which has not been cleaned in 20 years, has silted up to 2 meters deep.  Further, people have built structures along the river, and they have been dumping garbage and human waste into the waterway.

COMING UP: Art Gallery in Parian, Cebu!

BUZZ: Watch out for the opening of an Art Gallery in conjunction with the Cebu Art Association in the Dona Filomena Building in Cebu City, on time for the 2012 Sinulog! More later on...

The Dona Filomena Building is located on Zulueta Street, near Logarta, and near the Historic landmarks of Cebu (Jesuit House, Heritage Monument, Yap-Sandiego Museum, Casa Gorordo, and the Cathedral Museum)

Feedback to Honorable Mike Rama, Mayor of Cebu

MORE ON PARIAN DEVELOPMENTS
(Feedback to Honorable Mike Rama, Mayor of Cebu)
by Cecilia Manguerra Brainard

I have been tempted to write a letter to the Mayor, Mike Rama, but I didn’t want to get entangled with the technicalities of how one should address the Mayor – should that be Honorable Mike Rama, or Mayor Mike Rama, or Mr. Mike Rama? Everyone calls him Mike Rama, and I’ve met him a couple of times, and he’s a very personable guy who’ll sing at the first request. So I decided to blog my feedback to him.

What I want to say to him is this: Thank you for your beautification program that’s going on in Historic Cebu. I live in Old Cebu and I see street cleaners cleaning twice a day – note that’s twice a day. Many of the roads have been re-asphalted. If I’m not mistaken, the river with the historic bridge with a plaque is being dredged. At least it looked that way. And here I note that while a heavy rain was going on, this river flowed, meaning the water is moving and not adding to the flooded streets.

Those of us involved in heritage work in Cebu have always known Mike Rama supported the development of Historic Cebu. Now that he’s mayor, he’s “walking his talk.”

Thank you, Mr. Mayor, or Honorable Mayor, or Mike!

Now I’d like to suggest a few things related to the cleanup beautification program:

1. How about putting out garbage cans so the public can stop throwing trash on the roads and sidewalk? I realize real cans may get stolen, but how about using those gigantic containers made of recycled tire rubber? I believe I saw something like this in the Metro Manila area.

2. How about having some clean public bathrooms, where people can pay a few pesos to use the facilities, and put some of our own people to work by minding those toilets. I saw this in Eastern Europe where they had public bathrooms minded by old women, who kept the bathrooms scrupulously clean, and one had to pay a bit to use the facilities.

3. To encourage building owners in the historic district to participate in this beautification program, how about the local government offer some tax breaks for those who paint their homes or fix up their places?

4. How about we educate some of these building owners in the historic district of Cebu that the days of warehouses and boarders are at a wane and that it’s time to look at improving their buildings with the idea that the area is historic and that tourists visit it?

5. How about the government implement laws against illegal unlicensed structures, hanging over or right next to or even over rivers and creeks? As you know, Mr. Mayor, for the first time, our Fuente Osmena has experienced flooding. Cebu needs clear channels for water to flow to the sea, otherwise the very people living on the banks of these rivers and creeks will be seriously jeopardized when there is flooding, as what happened recently in Davao. They should be relocated and the waterways dredged and cleaned. It is a necessity for the good of all. I’m also speaking about waterways that have been completely built over, in the Tinago area. I also understand some big department stores in the Colon area have built over waterways, using these as part of their properties. Flood water now simply does not have a channel to flow through and thus flows throughout the city. Disaster and tragedy wait ready to happen if these are unattended to. (I’m not even talking about aesthetics and the health hazards of having human waste dumped straight into our rivers.)

6. The irregular sidewalks will kill tourists; so the City should probably do something about these. Maybe I’m asking too much, but how about looking at a section and focusing on that, as they did in Vigan, where they developed just a few streets until the idea caught on? How about the part where tourists do a walking tour – let’s fix up the sidewalks there!


Mr. Mayor, Honorable Mayor, Mike, am I dreaming, or is it a real possibility that the historic district can be beautiful, and that Cebuanos can one day soon be genuinely proud to show off this place to the numerous tourists that come see it anyway?

How many tourists do we get during the sinulog – millions, am I right? And those tourists will spend money in Cebu, and hotels, restaurants, taxis, stores, everyone is going to benefit from the visitors.

Truly, from the bottom of heart, thank you for your beautification

PARIAN FIESTA NIGHT WITH THE DIVETTES, Cebu

Parian Fiesta Night with the Divettes (Cebu)


I would have missed their performance if they hadn’t stood in front of the Yap-Sandiego House, in their hot pants and skimpy outfits, faces glowing with paint, and looking flashy, happy, and flirtatious. “Good evening, Ma'am,” they said as our group of ladies walked by. “Good evening,” we answered, then I thought to ask, “Are you performing tonight?” I had known that Val Sandiego hosted a fiesta performance in the Parian Plaza late fiesta night. I’d always missed it, not knowing what to expect, and had left fiesta celebrations with the stream of the well-heeled folks who’d eaten their fill and were ready to hit the sack.

“Yes, we are, 9:30,” one replied, eyelashes batting

“I’ll be back,” I said.

So at 9:30 I did return and sat in the Parian outdoor plaza near the Heritage Monument. Was I in for a treat!

First, I must make it clear that the evening performance was not all by cross-dresser performers. There were other singers, rap dancers, young dancers doing cool steps, even a fire dance number; but the performances of the Divettes (as in small Divas) made me laugh harder than I have in a long time.

I’d only seen one live performance of men dressed as women on stage, and that was in in San Francisco where one of the performers was a Filipino who was pretty it was impossible to imagine that he was a he.

Fiesta night in Parian showcased a number of cross-dressing divas, including: Cassandra Madrigal, Alvin (the comedian), Baby Sue (Lloyd in the daytime and Q-rator of the Yap-Sandiego House, Mamaru (Roger in the daytime, Ruth when she was younger, and now Mamru), and four others whose names I didn’t catch.

These women --- er, men, did an excellent job rendering Chicago’s He Had It Coming, and a number from La Cage Folles. They were for the most part, so pretty it was mind-boggling to think they were men in drag. Cassandra Madrigal had the loveliest face, long flowing hair, hips, belly button showing, voice, soft and feminine. The story I later heard is that Cassandra’s boyfriend had left his wife for him/her. Whatever. That night Cassandra had several dance numbers, numerous changes of clothes that made the women in the audience drool at how lovely his/her gowns were.

I don’t know if Cassandra was part of the Divettes, but there was a group of five in daring outfits who did the Chicago, La Cage a Folles numbers, and more. While the guys were doing their dance and mime (the music), Alvin did comic antics that sent people into uncontrollable laughter. Or maybe it was me laughing uncontrollably. I didn’t know slapstick could be so funny. Alvin is as thin as a tapeworm, and he could do things with his body and his face, so that physically he just looked funny. His mouth, for instance was painted white, which stood out when he made incredible faces.


Val Sandiego was emcee (aside from diretor and producer) was hilarious. He had so much energy directing the audience to clap, and saying borderline vulgar stuff that sent us rollicking with laughter. Mamaru, alias Ruth, alias Roger, was called on stage to do a fire dance, and Val Sandiego went something like (in Cebuano but I’m doing this in English): Ladies and Gentlemen, look at Mamaru, 65 years old and he can still dance, lower, lower, Mamaru, look at that, 65 years old, children, he’s as old as your grandparents. Etc.

And about the chubby lady fire dancer, “Look at that body, ladies and gentlemen, that’s from dancing." The young woman continued smiling and twirling her sticks with balls of fire.

I sat there at 9:30 and when I left at midnight, the show was still on.

Now, ladies and gentlemen of Cebu, next year,June 24, at night, I’m certain there will a free performance in the Parian plaza once again. So here’s what you should do: watch the 7 o’clock religious procession, eat dinner at Café Elyssa, then find a seat on the benches facing the stage near the fire station and chapel. You’ll be safe, you’ll have fun. And the performance is all free, courtesy of Val Sandiego, owner of the Pride of Parian the Yap-Sandiego House. All you have to do is laugh and clap.

(I'll post a few pictures of the fiesta later on, so check back in late July.)

PICTURES - 1730 JESUIT HOUSE IN HISTORIC CEBU

Here are some pictures of Cebu's 1730 Jesuit House. Owners Jimmy and Margarita Sy have now turned this historic place into a museum. The 1730 Jesuit House is located in the Parian, Cebu City, on Zulueta Street near Mabini. The Jesuit House may be the oldest documented house in the Philippines and is an important historic site.

SAN JUAN BATISTA FIESTA OF PARIAN, OLD CEBU

The Parian district of historic old Cebu just celebrated the fiesta of its patron, St. John the Baptist. I am waiting to hear how it turned out, but here's an early quick report from Atty. Lynley Ocampo who attended the event with the Osmena Canoys (mother and daughter). I'll continue to paste reports as they come in. The old pictures show the Parian triangle and Parian church as these once appeared. The old church was torn down and there is a small chapel that stands in its place. Now under the care of the Cofradia de San Juan Batista, the chapel was where tridium prayers and the fiesta Mass were held. Cardinal Vidal said the Mass. Knowing the Cofradia people, headed by Louie Nacorda, the chapel was decorated nicely, and the antique statues of San Juan, Jesus, and Angel held court in there.


More as news comes in.

From Lynley Ocampo:
Thank you very much for the invitation. We had a very lovely evening. It
was also very interesting to see Ng Titang Diola for the very first time.
It was a different experience for me. The Canoys also give their thanks.

During the short program, Louie told us that he petitioned San Juan if he
could please stop the rain - or not make it rain from 9am to 9pm since it
had been raining for two days already. When Louie realized that the
program started late, he asked for an extension of one hour. It hasn't
rained even up to this morning. We were unable to join the procession and
went straight to dinner. Am looking forward to next year's festivities.



From Louie Nacorda:
...we had the most grandiose feast ever yesterday! The Mass and procession were well attended; we had three carrozas, three bands, and Casa Gorordo was full house, up to the balcony! The weather was cool and dry. St. John the Baptist must have been very happy. Even the Gorordo ghosts made manifestations to some people in the azotea!

Viva Señor San Juan Bautista!

Zee Quarterly & my article on Parian

This was also a google alert. It mistakenly says I come from San Francisco instead of Santa Monica.

Zee Lifestyle on luxury living
Updated November 23, 2008 12:00 AM

Zee Lifestyle Cebu, the only glossy magazine outside Metro Manila, dedicates its November issue to luxury. What better way to send off 2008 than with an issue that celebrates all the best that life has to offer?

This year, Zee Lifestyle’s luxury issue has an all-white theme. There are stories on white truffles, vintage champagne, white catamarans, and white jewelry. Also in the November pages are features on the old world luxury of the Parian, Cebu’s premier address of yore, by San Francisco-based writer and part-time resident of the area Cecilia Brainard; the minimally decadent appointments in the newly-opened rooms of Abaca Boutique Resort; and the relative luxury offered by the call center industry photographed at architect Alex Medalle’s supremely modern Blue Blade Call Center. This issue’s home feature is also indicative of luxury. See how an ‘80s-era house was revamped to cater to a family’s dynamic, contemporary lifestyle, channeling the owner’s European roots mixed with island style. Cebu power couple Joanna and Michael Lhuillier grace the cover, epitomizing luxury that is elegantly laidback.

Grab your copy of Zee Lifestyle’s November Luxury Issue at National Bookstore, Powerbooks and Fully Booked branches.

OCTOBER EVENT IN PARIAN, OLD CEBU, PHILIPPINES

While I was in Ireland, I received this from my sister-in-law, Terry Escano Manguerra. She is talking about more development in Old Cebu - the Parian. Exciting news. The gentrification of this area has been faster than we anticipated.

"Last night was a wonderful experience with Val Sandiego's (dance) group called Taytayan. We started with a painting exhibit in the Cathedral Museum. The paintings were all churches painted by Tony Alcoseba and they were all in water color which is very hard to do. Then we went on to Val's house and had dinner and the show right on the street in front of the house. Its a good thing that the weather cooperated. Cardinal Vidal and Ace Durano, the tourism secretary were present the whole time. Although the program had a few kinks, as Val said they were not able to rehearse all together, still it was quite spectacular. I'm sure it will be better next time... I did not see L___ there although he said he would, but there were so many people so he must have been part of the crowd.

"I think we will be getting our wish of having a walking area in Parian, sooner than we think with the presence of government officials yesterday.

"Also I have some good news for you. Do you remember Odette Jereza the lady who brought us around the Rizal Museum? She has been tasked by the City to (do) research on the Cebu Beauty Queens and maybe to revive the tradition. I told her to go to your website to seem Mama's picture and she is very inspired. She loved her clothes and even her throne and I think will use your pictures as a way of inspiring our officials to revive the carnival and the Cebu Queens. She is hoping to do something on Jan. 17 and hopes we will be present for whatever plans they will be having. I said yes and that you will be around. Also there are now moves to do something about the Old Carreta cementery as suddenly some people are coming in to study the place. Jobers Bersales, who is the curator of the Old Provincial Jail Museum visited the place and he hopes that something can be done. I will be encouraging him to try his best to encourage Gwen and maybe our church officials to make some moves as soon as possible. That will be like making Parian and the port area the center of old Cebu."

CEBU OCTOBER 11 FASHION SHOW & MUSICALE IN THE PARIAN

I just learned from my sister-in-law the following:

From Terry Manguerra: "Val Sandiego and some of his friends are planning a big happening on Oct. 11 with a fashion show and a musical all to be held somewhere near his house. They are trying to get the Lim Bonfing bldg. if they can manage to fix it. Ace Durano the tourism secretary and the cardinal will grace the occasion. Hope this will be the start of the Parian rehabilitation. We, of course , at the Cathedral Museum are all for it."

I'm delighted to know about this. The Zee Quarterly Magazine, a slick magazine in Cebu is also running an article of mine entitled, Life in Parian Now, with pictures of Parian sites and some women ancestors of mine.

I am so excited at the gentrification of the Parian in Old Cebu!

~~~
Top Photo shows a mural of Colon Street, on the 17th century Yap-Sandiego House;
Bottom Photo shows a painting of Colon Street in my apartment in the Parian, Cebu; it is criticized because the figures are from different historical periods, but I call the painting "The Ghosts of Colon Street."

Fiesta in Parian, Cebu, Philippines

The Fiesta celebration of the Parian District in Old Cebu, Philippines came to pass, without rain and with old world touches. First the tridium (3 day) pre-Fiesta prayers were held at the Casa Gorordo, and attended by members of the Cofradia of St. John the Baptist. There was one evening when the rain fell and the wind blew, but it quickly passed.

The actual fiesta day was yesterday, June 24. Members of the Cofradia met in Casa Gorordo at 5 p.m. Each one was assigned to carry a standard with a painting of one aspect of St. John's life. Visiting scholar from the University of Wisconsin, Michael Cullinane carried a standard as well. There were three antique carrosas: one carrying statues of the Holy Family, the second carrying two statues of the young John and Jesus, and the third carrying the antique statues of John baptizing Christ, with an angel by the side. The carrosas (carriages) were decorated with fresh flowers and pulled by men. The lineup then was: Holy Family carrosa, some standard bearers, Young John and Jesus, some standard bearers, adult John and Jesus, followed by candle-bearing devotees who trailed behind.

There was a 5:30 Mass in the Parian chapel. It was concelebrated by four priests from the Cathedral, including Msg. Alesna who now heads the Cathedral. After the Mass, the procession started. It wound around the small district. The highlight of the procession, was when the carrosas passed by Casa Gorordo. Following old tradition, each carrosas stopped in front of the window facing the street. Below there were seranaders who sang religious songs, accompanied by guitarists; and above, viewers threw down flower petals onto the carrosas.

It was also quite nice to "process" in front of the Yap-Sandiego antique house. The house was dolled up, with dining tables and above, guests of Val and Booging watched the procession.

There is another section in the Parian where people decorate the street with banana trees and fireworks and they watch from the balcony.

After the procession, the carrosas, and banners were returned to the side of the Casa Gorordo for storage. There was an induction of the 3 new Cofradia members: Teresita Manguerra, Chona Bernad, and me. There was dinner in the lovely garden of the Casa Gorordo, simply stunning that balmy star-studded night.

For entertainment, there was singing and dancing provided by the Sandiego Troupe. It was delightful to see the Franco sisters, Marilou Chiongbian, and many others in Filipiniana attire. Seen among the guests: Resil Mojares, Linda Alburo, Chinggay Utzurrum, Inday Blanco, Erma Cuizon, Jaime Picornell, Beth Reyes, and the Manguerra kids and grandkids were also there.

Cofradia members Louie Nacorda, Pepit Gorordo Revilles, Joy Gerra, Gavin Bagares,Cheding Hermosa, Margie Mattheus were flitting about talking to city officials, their Manila, US guests, and others.

And down the street, Val and Booging Sandiego hosted their first fiesta celebration in the antique house. We visited the house, talked to Val's mother, Luz Mancao Sandiego (a friend of a Cuenco-aunt) and admired the recent developments in this beautiful treasure of a house. The downstairs has now been opened up; they discovered a window and a door, that leads to nowhere now, but it's fun to speculate that it once led to a garden. The ancient well still has fresh water! The Yap-Sandiego is such a magical place, I highly recommend it as a must-see if you are in Cebu.

For more pictures of the Fiesta, click here, Louie Nacorda's flicker site.

All for now,
Cecilia

(top photo: Cecilia Brainard, photo by Louie Nacorda;
next photo l-r: Chona Bernad, Terry Manguerra, Loy Alix, Cecilia Brainard, Marilou Chiongbian
Other photo shows Casa Gorordo with guests throwing flowers)

OLD CEBU TRADITIONS

The chapel of St. John the Baptist in the Parian District in Cebu City, is small and unimpressive, and so people may disregard it as another community chapel, one of many in the Philippines. What most people do not know is that this chapel sits on land that had belonged to the Jesuits in the 1700s, and in those days a huge church had stood there. It had been a very wealthy church, funded by the wealthy Chinese Filipino merchants who lived in Cebu's Parian District. As it turned out, the Jesuits were driven out of the Philippines, and the Church fell in the hands of the Diocese of Cebu. The church was torn down. Bit by bit the land was taken over the city and by squatters so that now, the land the chapel rests on has been considerably diminished. Unbeknown to many is that in that small chapel there is a cross that dates back to the Jesuit days of the 1700s. It's stands behind the altar.

Yesterday, the feast day of St. John the Baptist, people overflowed outside the chapel of St. John. After Mass, there was a procession. The three Santos images are centenery statues of Christ, St. John the Baptist and a charming dreamy angel that makes me think of a Mexican lass. This year, the confradia of St. John the Baptist, headed by Louie Nacorda, added banners with images depicting various points of St. John's life. There were a number of little girls dressed as angels who were supposed to accompany the banner-carriers, but for some reason, they ended in the back of a van, without any lights nor decoration - the poor girls went unnoticed.

The procession starts from the Chapel, curves around the Heritage Monument, past Val Sandiego's antique house that is all dolled-up, and then it turns right on Lopez Jaena toward the Casa Gorordo. In front of the house, the silver carrosa carrying the images stop, and the members of the Confradia sing some songs. At the same time, some people from the second story of the Casa Gorordo throw calachuchi petals down on the statues. Apparently, in the 1850s, it had been the custom for the procession in front of Bishop Gorordo's house - the Casa Gorordo.

The procession continues, winding its way through the Parian district, and then it returns to the chapel, and the images and silver carrosa are returned to the Casa Gorordo.

Meantime, outside the chapel, there are food vendors selling briskly to the locals; and further down Lopez Jaena, the Confradia hosts a dinner and performance to members and guests. The delightful folk singing and dancing are all courtesy of Val Sandiego's Dance Troupe.



It's a lovely revival of an old tradition, one that Pepit Revilles and Louie Nacorda have resuscitated. They say every year more people show up, and spotted last night were Chinggay Utzurrum, Gavin Bagares, Erma Cuizon, Linda Alburo, Beth Reyes, and some 95 other people.

Thank you Pepit and Louie for this charming tradition!
Photo shows antique Santos statues of St. John the Baptist, Jesus Christ, and an Angel
Bottom photo shows Val San Diego's Dance Troupe